Which is better for cannabis, LED or HPS?

LED wins for most cannabis growers. A modern LED fixture turns roughly 2.5 to 3.0 micromoles of light out of every joule, while a double-ended HPS lands near 1.2 to 1.6 micromoles per joule. That gap means less heat, lower power bills, and more usable light per square foot.

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HPS still has two honest advantages: a lower purchase price and free heat in a cold basement or garage.

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LED vs HPS at a glance

Why do LEDs yield more per watt?

Yield tracks the total light a canopy receives, not the wattage on the label. Because LED wastes less electricity as heat, you can push higher PPFD in the same footprint without cooking the tops. Growers who move from a 600W HPS to a comparable 480W LED usually see the same or better flower weight at a lower meter reading.

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Tunable spectra also let you steer plant shape and secondary metabolites instead of accepting one fixed blend.

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When does HPS still make sense?

HPS remains a reasonable pick in unheated spaces where the lamp doubles as a heater. It also suits growers who already own ballasts, hoods, and spare bulbs. In a warm climate or a small tent, though, HPS heat becomes a problem you pay twice to solve: once for the lamp and again for the air conditioning.

What should you buy first?

Start with a full-spectrum LED sized to your tent footprint, then add options only if your room runs cold.

  1. Top pick: a 240W to 320W bar-style or quantum board LED for a 3x3 or 4x4 tent. Look for Samsung or Bridgelux diodes, a meanwell driver, and a dimmer.
  2. Budget alternative: a 315W ceramic metal halide (CMH) fixture. Better spectrum than HPS, cheaper than a quality LED, still runs hot.
  3. Cold-room option: a 600W double-ended HPS with an air-cooled hood, paired with a controller to manage the heat swing.

Does switching to LED change your grow?

Yes, in small ways. Lower leaf temperature means slower transpiration, so plants often drink less and need less frequent feeding. Raise the room temperature a few degrees and keep vapor pressure deficit in range so calcium and magnesium still move through the plant. Watch the first run closely and adjust irrigation strength rather than changing everything at once.